Santillana del Mar is a medieval village in Northern Spain's Cantabria region, just 25 minutes from Santander. It is known for being one of the most beautiful villages in Spain, and it's an ideal day-trip destination.
My mother-in-law is from Santander. She is also a former tour guide. So during our two-week trip to Santander and Galicia, she made a point to take us to Santillana del Mar.
Santillana del Mar is located on the Northern Route of the Camino de Santiago, a popular pilgrimage route that ends in Santiago de Compostela. (Note: Santillana del Mar and Santiago de Compostela are nearly 5 hours apart by car; it's a multi-day journey on foot).
What to Know about Santillana del Mar
The most important thing to know is that the streets are cobblestone, so plan your footwear accordingly. Skip the heels and opt for sneakers.
The historic section of the town is closed to traffic. Paid parking is available a short walk away.
How to Get to Santillana del Mar
If you have a car, it's just a 25-minute drive from Santander. It takes just under 90 minutes to drive from Bilbao. If you don't want to drive, a bus is available from Santander.
Santillana del Mar History
Santillana del Mar's history dates back to the 8th century when the village formed around a monastery. By the 12th century, the monastery had grown into the Santillana del Mar Collegiate Church.
The village's location on the Camino (the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela) made it an economic center and important religious site.
During the Renaissance, noble families, including the Velarde family, arrived in the village and constructed palaces. Santillana del Mar experienced significant growth during this period, and most of the buildings surrounding the church were built between the 14th and 18th centuries.
The village's architecture from the Middle Ages and Renaissance remains in great condition. Many buildings have traditional Cantabrian balconies filled with flowers.
The town center has been declared a national monument.
What does Santillana del Mar mean?
One may assume that name comes from the words for Saint (Santo), Flat (LLana), and Sea (Mar). It's said that it is the "Town of Three Lies" since it isn't a saint, flat, or on the sea. In reality, the town name came from Saint Juliana, whose remains are in the church, and the fact that it is near the sea.
The Prettiest Village in Spain
Jean-Paul Sartre called Santillana del Mar "le plus joli village d'Espagne" (the prettiest village in Spain) in his first novel, La Nausée (Nausea), which was published in 1938.
Things to Do in Santillana del Mar
The small village has a couple of can't-miss sites. I think that one of the best things to do in Santillana del Mar is to just wander around the beautiful and well-kept town center.
Santillana del Mar Collegiate Church
This large church is home to the relics of Santa Juliana and serves as the centerpiece of Santillana del Mar. Featuring Romanesque-style architecture, it was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries.
The embossed silver altar was added in the 17th century.
The Velarde Palace Museum
This small Renaissance-era palace was a residence until 2011 and has recently been opened as a museum. It's located just across from the church.
The tour is excellent, featuring holograms of the ghosts of the palace's former residents talking about the region and the palace’s history. The palace was home to a famed author, a duchess, a Cardinal, and even a hideout for a Nazi spy.
Take a moment to enjoy the view of the church and the village from the second floor of the Velarde Palace.
Note that the museum has a set schedule of tour times. We had to wait 15 minutes for the next tour to begin - it is well worth the wait.
Restaurants
Santillana del Mar is filled with restaurants that cater to tourists and offer a menu of the day. My mother-in-law chose Jardin Del Marques, which has a beautiful terrace.
Shopping
There are lots of boutiques and shops for tourists in the village. Most of them are darling! Some sell local food products, including meats and cheeses. Others sell clothing and jewelry. It's worth taking the time to browse them.
Playground
There is a playground very near the parking area. We let our daughter run around and play for a while before driving back to Santander.
Pony Rides
My daughter hung out with her grandparents at a coffee shop while I went into the church. This meant that she didn't see the pony rides that take place just beside the church's entrance. I wanted to make mention of this so that other parents can be aware that if they bring their children into the church, they might end up with children begging to go on a pony ride.
Museum of Torture - Inquisicion
We skipped this since our young daughter was with us, but this museum displays instruments of torture from the Middle Ages through the Industrial Age.
Altamira Caves / Museo de Altamira
These famous caves have some well-preserved prehistoric art dating back to the end of the Ice Age. The caves themselves have been closed but a museum with a replica of the cave has opened.
Annual Events
Three Kings Parade and Celebration
This religious celebration takes place on January 5th and involves carol singing, a Nativity Scene contest, a religious play, and a parade. Three Kings Parades take place throughout Spain, but the celebration in this village is particularly well-known.
Where to Stay in Santillana del Mar
Santillana del Mar is very small, making it a day-trip destination. My mother-in-law has stayed in the village when she visits for the Three Kings Parade.
Parador de Santillana del Mar
This four-star hotel is beside the town square making it the ideal place to stay if you are visiting for the Three Kings Celebration.
Casa del Marqués
A five-star hotel housed in a 15th-century mansion and former residence of the first Marquis of Santillana.
